Yesterday, a good friend of mine with a lot of knowledge on this kind of stuff, helped me out with the installation.
I won't go on too much about the basics (taking out the lamp housing, connecting the resistor etc.) as there were a couple of issues that made the installation tricky. The only important basic thing is the fact that the resistor should be fitted on the negative cable.
In terms of the actual LEDs, it appears that the +/- terminals are the other way around. Therefore, we had to modify the position of the two terminals (anode and cathode) and cut the remaining two. Trying to put them after the modification was also tricky, as the plastic guide at the rear end was preventing the LED getting into the socket. The solution to this was to cut the guide.
At the end, the LEDs worked great. This morning however, I discovered another issue. The lighting switch has an Auto position and with day light, I am getting a message to check the position lamps. The LEDs do not work. When I turn the switch to low beam, the LEDs work.
As I have already mentioned, the stock bulbs are 12v 21/5W. It seems that 5W filament is used when low beam is selected manually and in Auto mode during the night (playing the role of position lamps). The 21W filament is used in Auto mode during the day and thus the LEDs do not work (role of DRL).
Cutting the two remaining terminals was a mistake, as they should have been used for the DRL connection (again by altering their position).
Stay tuned in order to read about the work around on the issues described above and to see the final result with the H7 stock bulbs replaced with Philips BlueVision (4000ºK) ones *.
* Philips CrystalVision are a better match to the LEDs in terms of colour, but not as good when it comes to visibility during rain.
I won't go on too much about the basics (taking out the lamp housing, connecting the resistor etc.) as there were a couple of issues that made the installation tricky. The only important basic thing is the fact that the resistor should be fitted on the negative cable.
In terms of the actual LEDs, it appears that the +/- terminals are the other way around. Therefore, we had to modify the position of the two terminals (anode and cathode) and cut the remaining two. Trying to put them after the modification was also tricky, as the plastic guide at the rear end was preventing the LED getting into the socket. The solution to this was to cut the guide.
At the end, the LEDs worked great. This morning however, I discovered another issue. The lighting switch has an Auto position and with day light, I am getting a message to check the position lamps. The LEDs do not work. When I turn the switch to low beam, the LEDs work.
As I have already mentioned, the stock bulbs are 12v 21/5W. It seems that 5W filament is used when low beam is selected manually and in Auto mode during the night (playing the role of position lamps). The 21W filament is used in Auto mode during the day and thus the LEDs do not work (role of DRL).
Cutting the two remaining terminals was a mistake, as they should have been used for the DRL connection (again by altering their position).
Stay tuned in order to read about the work around on the issues described above and to see the final result with the H7 stock bulbs replaced with Philips BlueVision (4000ºK) ones *.
* Philips CrystalVision are a better match to the LEDs in terms of colour, but not as good when it comes to visibility during rain.
