Well, my good friend managed to modify the terminal layout of the LEDs (earlier post), thus shorting out the polarity problem, in order to be fitted to the the car's socket and work properly (earlier post). The OEM DRL bulb is shown in the photo above.
Therefore, now they are working as they should, with "stage I" lighting during the night (Auto mode) and when low beam is selected manually and "stage II" lighting during the day (Auto mode again).
Diodes (*) were also used, as it was discovered that there is a return current to the anode which was not in use (stage I uses one of the two anodes, while stage II uses the other anode). Both stages use the same 40 SMD/SMT LED chips (check out seller's website).
The only unresolved issue is the warning message I am getting on the dashboard for checking the left and right position lamps. This is bizarre since resistors and diodes have been used.
I have also contacted V-Leds and I was informed by their customer support, that the wiring layout I am after is called SACK/SRCK. Since they don't have white 7443 LEDs with this specific layout, they informed me that that they can provide me with a special one off set.
Moving forward, do you remember the disappointing result from fitting the BlueVision bulbs (earlier post)? My dear friend happened to have a spare PIAA Xtreme White H7 bulb (rated at 4150ºK). I grabbed the chance and fitted it on the left headlight (left side front view). The PIAA bulb provides a whiter light, but don't expect miracles. No good halogen bulb can match the LED colour.
* Diodes have two active electrodes between which the signal of interest may flow, and most are used for their unidirectional electric current property.
